How to Fit the Slim Adjustable Wedge Mount (Installation Guide)
The adhesive pad is the quickest way to fit the mount, but it only gets one go at it. Read steps 1 to 4 before you peel anything — they take two minutes and they are the difference between a mount that stays up and one that ends up on the doorstep.
1Check the box
Everything you need to fit the mount is in the box apart from the tools. Lay it all out first so you are not hunting for a washer halfway through.
You will need two screwdrivers: a small one to punch the screw holes through the face of the mount, and a regular-sized one for the screws themselves. Your doorbell keeps its own backplate — we do not supply one.
2Check your doorbell fits
Hold your doorbell's backplate against the face of the mount before you go any further. The fixing area is 145 × 46 mm (5.7 × 1.82 in). If the backplate's screw holes land inside that rectangle you are fine. If they sit outside it, this mount is too small for your doorbell — send it back rather than forcing it.
3Punch the holes, never drill them
The mount is designed with a square-cell grid inside. A drill bit tears straight through that grid and leaves a hole with nothing for the screw to bite into, so the screw spins forever. A screwdriver tip pressed and twisted pushes the plastic aside instead and leaves the grid intact.
4Check your surface takes adhesive
This is the step people skip and regret. The adhesive pad is strong, but it can only hold on to what it is stuck to. On smooth uPVC, glass, glazed tile or sound painted metal it is excellent. On brick, render, rough timber, textured cladding or flaky paint it will pull the surface off the wall and take your doorbell with it.
We do not recommend sticking the mount to painted walls at all. If you have no other option, test first: press masking tape firmly onto the spot and pull it off sharply. Any paint on the tape means screws, not adhesive.
5Wired doorbell? Sort the cable first
Skip this step entirely if your doorbell runs on a battery. If yours is wired, do all of it now — once the pad is on the wall you cannot open the mount up to route a cable through it.
Pick the side the cable comes in on. Hold the mount where it is going and see which way your cable naturally runs.
Take out two of the four screws. Keep them somewhere safe — they go back in at the end.
Loosen the other two and open the mount flat. Loosen only — leave them in place so the two halves stay hinged together.
Cut out the two thin tabs. They are there so the mount arrives rigid; cut them and you have your cable channel. Gloves on, sharp blade, cut away from yourself.
Feed the cable in from the back and close it up. Refit both screws and tighten all four. Leave enough slack at the front to reach your doorbell's terminals comfortably.
6Clean both surfaces
Isopropyl alcohol is ideal. A vinegar-based window cleaner works too. What does not work is a household spray with wax or polish in it, or a wet wipe — both leave a film that the adhesive grips instead of the wall.
Clean the back of the mount as well as the wall, even though the mount is new. Then let both dry completely.
7The pad goes on the back
The flat face marked BACK is the side that meets the wall.
8Peel, press, then leave it alone
Yellow liner off, pad onto the back of the mount, press. Red liner off, mount onto the wall, and push hard for a full 30 seconds.
Now wait 24 hours before you hang anything on it. The bond keeps building over that first day, and loading it early is the most common reason an adhesive mount lets go later. Fit the doorbell tomorrow.
9Washers — only if you need them
Some doorbell backplates have screw holes wider than our screw heads. If yours do, the head pulls straight through and nothing holds. Check by resting a screw in the hole: if it drops through, add a washer under the head. If it sits on the plate, leave the washers in the bag.
10Fit the doorbell
Take the backplate off your doorbell. How it comes off depends on the make — most either unclip or release with the pin that came with the doorbell.
Hold the backplate on the mount and punch through every hole. Press and twist a small Phillips screwdriver through each one. If the tip skates instead of biting, you have landed on a grid wall — move a couple of millimetres and try again.
Screw the backplate down. Start every screw before you tighten any of them, then work round evenly. Snug is enough — keep going and you will strip the plastic.
Clip the doorbell onto its backplate. Wired doorbell? Connect the cable first.
Set the angle, then lock it. Slacken the four screws on the mount, turn the face left or right until the camera covers the path rather than your neighbour's garden, then tighten all four. Check the live view on your phone before you do the final nip up — it is far easier than redoing it later.
11Taking it off again
Moving house, or got the position wrong? Do not lever the mount off — on uPVC that cracks the frame. Take the doorbell off first, then work the pad loose.
Spray WD-40 onto a flexible filling knife and slide the blade in behind the pad at one edge. Slowly.
Work your way around the pad rather than forcing the blade straight through the middle. Top up the WD-40 as you go.
Support the mount as the last of the adhesive lets go so it does not drop. Roll the leftover residue off with your thumb, then wipe the surface down with isopropyl alcohol.
The pad is single-use. If you are refitting the mount somewhere else you will need a fresh piece of 3M VHB — or use the wall screws instead.
Stuck on any of it? Email us at info@marsoutpost.net with a photo of your door frame and we will tell you which option to use.
Step-by-step instructions for screwing the wedge to the wall are on their way. In the meantime the video above walks through the fitting.